Spray Foam Insulation in Traverse City, MI

Spray Foam Insulation is applied as a two-part liquid that expands and cures into a solid layer bonded to the framing, concrete or steel behind it. It fills cracks and seams completely, so it stops air movement while it insulates. That matters in northern Michigan, where wind off the bays and long stretches below freezing pull cold air in at the bottom of a house and push warm air out the top. Batts and loose fill slow heat; foam also stops the air carrying it.

Closed-cell foam

Dense and rigid when cured, closed-cell foam rates about R-5 to R-7 per inch according to HomeGuide. At normal thickness it slows water vapor and will not absorb water. That makes it our choice for rim joists and sills, foundation and crawl space walls, the underside of cottage floors, cathedral ceilings and roof decks without an attic, and the steel of pole barns. A few inches add a lot of R-value in a tight spot.

Open-cell foam

Open-cell foam is light and spongy, about R-3.5 to R-3.8 per inch. It expands to fill irregular cavities and dampens sound, so it suits interior walls, floors between levels and some rooflines. It lets vapor through, which in a Zone 6 climate means it needs a vapor retarder or a design that lets the assembly dry, and it should not touch cold concrete or steel.

Cathedral ceilings and lofts

Many northern Michigan homes and cottages have vaulted ceilings, lofts and log or timber accents, with little room for insulation between the rafters. Closed-cell foam packs the most R-value into that shallow space and seals the air leaks that cause ice dams along the eaves. It has to go on a dry roof deck, so we check for leaks first.

Where we would not use foam

An open attic floor is almost always cheaper to seal and blow in to depth. Closed walls in a finished house are usually filled with dense-pack cellulose through small holes. And foam never fixes a leak: roof, plumbing and foundation water problems come first.

The day of the job

We protect floors and contents, ventilate, and spray in passes to the depth on your estimate. HomeGuide advises staying out of the house for at least 24 hours while foam cures and airs out. In living or storage spaces foam generally needs a thermal or ignition barrier, depending on the product and use, and we include it when it is needed. Foam also needs the surface and the air to be warm enough, so winter jobs in unheated spaces may need temporary heat.

Call (231) 640-5435 or book a visit and we will show you where foam makes sense in your home or cottage. Get a free estimate