Frequently Asked Questions

Foam does not kill mold, but closed-cell foam keeps warm, moist air off cold surfaces like rim joists, crawl space walls and steel, which removes the condensation mold needs. Existing mold and its water source have to be dealt with first.

Closed-cell foam, at about R-5 to R-7 per inch in HomeGuide's figures, versus roughly R-3.5 to R-3.8 for open cell. Total R-value depends on thickness, which we write on the estimate.

Grand Traverse County is in Climate Zone 6A. The Department of Energy recommends R-60 for an empty attic in these zones, or adding R-49 over 3 to 4 inches. We seal the attic floor first, then bring it to depth.

Most ice dams come from warm air leaking into the attic and melting roof snow. Sealing the attic floor, insulating it to depth and keeping the eaves vented fixes the cause; heat cables only treat the symptom.

Yes. Many owners start with the crawl space or floor and the rim joist so the cottage can sit lightly heated, then do the attic. We schedule foam while it is empty.

Its 2026 residential rebate list includes attic, wall, basement wall, crawl space wall, kneewall, floor and rim joist insulation. We note the square footage and R-value you will need for the form.

Spray foam systems are made by several chemical manufacturers and sold to installers through distributors. For your house, what matters is the foam type, the thickness and correct mixing and application, all of which we put on the estimate.

Yes, but the surface and air need to be warm enough for the foam to cure properly. In unheated spaces we may use temporary heat.

HomeGuide advises at least 24 hours while it cures and airs out.

Sealing and insulating a shallow vaulted ceiling with closed-cell foam removes the warm air that melts roof snow, which is the main cause of ice dams there.

In most homes, sealing and insulating the attic floor removes the heat that causes them. Roof shape and ventilation matter too, and we check both.

Only if it is wet, moldy, contaminated or in the way of sealing. Dry insulation can stay under the new layer.

For an open attic floor, sealing plus blown-in is usually better value. Foam fits vaulted ceilings and attics with ductwork or living space.

Usually one to two days, including sealing.

Often, yes. The floor or crawl space and rim come first, then the attic, then walls if needed.

If it can be closed off, sealing and insulating the walls usually works better. Pier-built cottages get foam under the floor instead.

A sealed, insulated crawl space stays much closer to house temperature, which is the most reliable protection for pipes in it.

Closed-cell foam keeps damp air off cold surfaces, which removes the condensation mold needs. Existing mold and water problems are handled first.

Two to three inches of closed cell is common, about R-10 to R-21. The depth is on your estimate.

Yes. It follows the uneven surface and seals gaps at the sill.

Its 2026 list includes $50 per rim joist project.

Yes, once the foam has cured and aired out, usually the next day.

Yes. Closed-cell foam keeps damp air off the cold steel, which is what causes it.

Thicker than in storage. We size it to how warm you keep it and write the depth on the estimate.

Yes, with temporary heat if the building is cold, so the foam cures properly.

If people work in the building, usually yes, depending on the product. We will tell you.

After. Wiring, plumbing and HVAC rough-in should be finished and inspected first.

Many new homes use closed cell at the rim and in vaulted roofs and open cell or other materials in walls. We recommend based on your plans.

Yes. We coordinate with the builder and inspector so insulation fits the schedule.

Your building department sets that based on the code and Climate Zone 6A. We size foam to meet it.